Friday, November 30, 2012

Collecting, sharing at Amitiés Tissées

photo: St Tyl

Although Shukuko Voss-Tabe most often curates thematic or contemporary textiles in her Paris gallery, her most recent exhibit, Au coeur des collections textiles, was a little different.  This passionate supporter of textile arts found it fitting to celebrate the 10th anniversary of her association, Amitiés Tissées
by bringing together a sampling of treasures belonging to the many textile professionals and enthusiasts she has met over the years. Thus, "the textiles on display were not been chosen according to historical or cultural criteria. Each collector was invited to present works to which they are particularly attached and which we have chosen together." A very heartfelt idea for this association whose name means woven friendships. 


photo: St Tyl

One of my favorite pieces was this late Edo period hikeshi-banten (fireman's coat) with a gosho-guruma (imperial cart) design. The quilted layers were wet to protect the wearer at work. This is the inside of the coat; the outside was of simple design as seen on the collar. Once the fire was extiguished, the fire fighters would turn their coats inside out to show their rich tsutsugaki (freehand rice paste resist) decoration in joyful celebration of their accomplishment.

photo: St Tyl


Egasuri cloth: this technique uses paste resist on weft threads to produce patterns

Murakami Kasuri Orimoto studio, Yonago Japon
late 20th century


photo: St Tyl
A Syrian silk with slanting joined gold borders 

photo St Tyl
foreground: woman's kimono with view of the
crepe taffeta lining showing resist dye shade gradation typical of yuzen bokashi-zome

background: Royal Bushoong raffia weaving with applications of velvet raffia
Kuba-Zaire
early 20th century

photo: St Tyl

Collecting at its best is very far from mere acquisitiveness; it may become one of the most humanistic of occupations, seeking to illustrate by the assembling of significant reliques, the march of the human spirit in its quest for beauty...

Arthur Davison Ficke


Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Big Carré: milleneufcentquatrevingtquatre


photo: milleneufcentquatrevingtquatre

A tandem of designers is behind the name milleneufcentquatrevingtquatre .
Amélie Charroin and Marie Colin Madan, both born in 1984, gave the year of their birth dates to their
silk scarf label. Nothing Orwellian here. Each carré de soie (silk square) tends toward individualism, an artwork with each one of its four corners treated differently.


photo: milleneufcentquatrevingtquatre


photo: milleneufcentquatrevingtquatre

Monday, November 19, 2012

Yi Felt Capes

photo St Tyl

These felt capes were made of yack wool, sheep wool and human hair in
 the beginning of the 20th century Yunnan, China. Several times a day Yi women would brush their thick hair an take what was left in the bristles to their master. The use of long silky hair served as a network for felting with the yack and sheep wool, creating here a particularly dense and almost waterproof felt.

photoSt Tyl

on display at
an exhibit about hair

at the Musée du quai Branly

for more information see:
the Soul of the Felt Cloak and The Nuosu Yi