Pretty purse

photo StTyl

photo StTyl

 Bourse with lovely embroidered vermiculated base.

Seen at the flea market today.

Fruman collection: embroidered treasure

© Alain Rousseau

Above: Head covering with vase of flowers, France 17th century

Flowers, foliage, and gems are embroidered in satin stitch, in silk polychrome and accents of silver threads

After over 30 years of collecting embroidered liturgical ornaments, Josiane Cougard-Fruman and Daniel Fruman were able to bring together over 200 examples of these magnificent but largely over-looked embroidered textiles dating from the 15th to the 20th century. The collection is comprised of pieces specifically created for Catholic, Orthodox, and Anglican devotional rites, unlike many other liturgical ornaments which were often re-created or 

re-cycled from precious silks formerly worn by their donners. The Fruman couple, with the contribution of the Zaleski Foundation, has recently made a donation of this unique collection to the Museum of the Treasure at the Cathedral of Puy-en-Velay, a UNESCO heritage site, were the setting is every bit as exquisite as these new and rare masterpieces. 

© Alain Rousseau

Choir hanging, Italy 18th century  

 Beating its breast with its beak, the pelican, symbol of Christ, feeds its young with its blood

The collection is on permanent display in the cloisters of the cathedral on a rotating basis in order to preserve these fragile materials. And if a trip to Puy-en-Velay can't be undertaken regularly, the Frumans have just published a beautifully illustrated book at Albin Michel with exceptionally detailed, close-up photographs by Alain Rousseau. 

© Alain Rousseau

© Alain Rousseau

Antependium or cloth serving to decorate the front of the altar, 

from the carmel de Chârtres, France 17th century

 The rose without thorns is a symbol of the Virgin containing all the beauty of the flower 

and the total absence of  its sting.

© Alain Rousseau

Chasuble Salvator Mundi, St Blaise and St Pierre, Spain and Italy 15th century 

detail: Figure of Saint Pierre

 © Alain Rousseau

The Pentecost (detail), France 17th century  

inspired by a painting of  Le Brun

© Alain Rousseau

St. Mary Magdalene penitent, France 17th century 

 corded 3 dimensional embroidery

© Alain Rousseau
Miter with the good shepherd,  France 17th century

© Alain Rousseau

The textures and colors of these sacred canvases are sheer sensual secular pleasure. 
Contradiction?

Tout cet appareil montre le soin qu'il faut prendre de ne point paroître devant le Seigneur, qu'après s'être paré intérieurement par toutes sortes de vertus: 

car les ornemens extérieurs ne doivent être qu'un signe sensible des vertus dont l'âme doit être 

intérieurement ornée.

All this raiment shows the care that must be taken to appear before the Lord only after having donned many virtues within: for these exterior ornaments must be only the visible sign of virtues with which the soul is internally decorated.

Père Pierre Le Brun 1716

More photos and information: La Vie 
the Fruman textile site: Plaisirs Textiles 

Josephine's forgotten gown

photo: Picot-Brocard

The Figaro reports on a forgotten gown owned by the Empress Josephine which has recently resurfaced.  The dress was sent for restoration at the embroidery atelier of François-André Picot, official embroiderer of the Emperor in the beginning of the 1800s never to leave the workshop. It is now up for auction at Osenat in a sale of Empire objects and furnishings to take place December 4th at Fontainebleau. One assumes sufficient time has elapsed for the garment's perfect restoration.

A new take on stripes

Riviera

The Christian Lacroix Arles Collection for Designer's Guild contains this broken stripe pattern printed on crisp 100% cotton "designed to to replicate the look of a crushed striped couture gown." Not stripey enough, you say?

Sol y sombra

The straight up and down variety is available in cotton and silk.

Tempera

More stripes. This time with a full width's worth of painterly colors in one repeat.  Digital print on cotton poplin, horizontal repeat 137cm.

Taleguilla

Intricate embroidery stripes on an ivory silk satin ground.

Taleguilla

A closer look.

Riviera, Sol y sombra with added floral embroidery, Tempera, and Forum (the Jacquard grisaille scene of Arles at left) have also been interpreted as cushions and rugs. You can see them at  accessories by Lacroix under Lifestyle Brochures on the DG site; they are are very well done.

Chistian Lacroix at Designer's Guild