Franck Sorbier's Silken Voyage in Time

© all photos Piero Biasion

Rubelli's Jacquard Tricorno

There has been a lot of talk about the historicizing designs of the19th century due to the Folie Textile exhibit,

but we've been repeating that trait ever since - just not exclusively. Franck Sorbier has taken historic period silks from the collections of Rubelli and Tassinari et Chatel to create a modern-romantic, 21st century Haute Couture collection Winter 2013-14.

Tassinari et Chatel fabric, Les Chimères 

Tassinari et Chatel, Argentan 

the back

Who made this damask?

Tassinari et Chatel, Cernushi 

Giotto coat et longue bustier gown Duccio in Rubelli's Tricorno 

© Photos Piero Biasion

The stuff of Mme Grès

Madame Grès par Crespi
via Paris Musées
Femina, avril 1949, p.60.
Crespi, photo extraite de Femina © Droits réservés

The admirable Madame Grès, sculptress of fabric, 1903-1993. Her work is venerated today among the stone sculptures of the Musée Bourdelle in an exhibit created by the Musée Galliera which has been extended until the 28th of August 2011.

photo St Tyl

Far from being costumes of another age to be sealed in museum cases,

these dresses are classic and eternal, continuing to inspire because of the perfect
harmony of their material and cut.

photo St Tyl

Je ne crée jamais une robe à partir d’un croquis. Je drape sur un mannequin, puis j’étudie à fond son caractère et c’est alors que je prends mes ciseaux .

I never make a gown based on a sketch. I drape the mannequin then I study the fabric's character fully,
and only then do I take up my scissors.

quote source: Institut d’histoire du temps présent /cnrs

photo St Tyl

photo St Tyl

photo St Tyl

Whether it was silk or wool or viscose, she let the material guide her creations. Her very pure aesthetic and talent with pleats gave her a special a preference for silk jersey. 

photo St Tyl

photos: St Tyl

Madame Grès, la Couture à l’œuvre